Road Less Travelled: The New Balance Mt580

These days, the MT580 is a well respected member of the sneaker hall of fame, but the shoe didn’t experience the immediate success that many of New Balance’s well known OG styles did. As the brand gears up to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 580 this year, it’s worth examining how the model has evolved, outlasting many of its competitors and maintaining cult status. The ultimate off-road runner, rather fittingly, has always blazed its own trail.

A unique partnership

As hard as it is to imagine today, sneaker collaborations didn’t exist in the mid-90s. Chain stores would occasionally produce an SMU (Special Make Up) exclusively for their own doors, but this concept was well beyond the means of boutique retailers. And even if they could have secured an SMU, it was unlikely they would have control over the materials and colours. There was simply no precedent for this level of bespoke creativity in the industry.

All that changed in 1999 when New Balance Japan developed a unique partnership with Mita Sneakers, a retailer based in Ueno, and Real MadHECTIC, a Tokyo streetwear label.

Boasting such a modest profile, the 580 was not an obvious candidate for such a groundbreaking concept, but the crew from Mita and MadHECTIC had been repping the tech-laden trail runner personally. When they suggested the 580 to New Balance – much to their surprise – the idea was positively received. Little did they know, but they were also about to create a significant legacy for all three brands.

Evolution

The 580 received its first major update in 2013, with the release of the MRT580. The addition of the ‘R’ to the style code signified the introduction of New Balance’s REVLITE midsole foam. Slimmed down for a new generation, the MRT580 nevertheless maintained its towering wedge proportions. In sync with the midsole makeover, the shoe was also released in sizes for ladies for the first time, with brands like X-Girl developing their own female-focused collaborations.