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Shining a Light on the Genius of Martine Rose

martine rose

The eponymous menswear brand of British-Jamaican designer Martine Rose has gone from emerging label to an indestructible force in what seems like the blink of an eye. Nominated for prestigious prizes and a wardrobe mainstay of fashion’s elite, it’s not surprising that her influence extends beyond clothing. She’s undoubtedly become one of the industry’s most disruptive collaborators, making unprecedented takes on classic models all in a day’s work. Not to mention Martine Rose is stocked in a growing list of the best online and IRL retail locations!

In 2022, rumours suggested that Rose could have been considered for Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of menswear, following the tragic passing of the late Virgil Abloh. With so much happening, it’s time to delve into the question: who is Martine Rose?

In the Beginning

Rose grew up in the South London area and would graduate from Middlesex University in 2002, Business of Fashion reports. After commencing her journey into the world of fashion, she’d go on to establish LMNOP, her first label with Tamara Rothstein. With that brand not panning out exactly as planned, Rose launched her own venture in 2007, beginning as a men’s shirting brand.

Demna Taps Rose for Balenciaga

Almost a decade into the menswear game, things were about to change for Rose. Her rendezvous with Balenciaga began in 2015 – the year that Demna Gvasalia became the brand’s creative director. Gvasalia was always ready to ruffle the feathers of the fashion industry, executing Balenciaga’s first-ever menswear runway two years later. To spearhead the task, Gvasalia had none other than Rose’s genius for consultation. Rose recalled her Balenciaga stint in an interview with Vogue UK, telling the magazine that it changed her life. ‘Demna was so brave in giving me a real shot.’ In a nutshell, Rose’s signature aesthetic has shaped Balenciaga’s position in the modern world of menswear. Rose went on to work alongside Gvasalia at Balenciaga for three years.

This feature was originally published on October 21, 2022.

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