How Pharrell and Nigo Are Saluting Virgil Abloh Through the BUTTERSOFT Sneaker

Unwrapping the genetic code of starts with three titans of modern design. There’s and , whose collaborative history is foundational to modern streetwear – blending , and luxury in ways that totally jumbled the building blocks of sneaker culture. Joining forces in the early 00s, the duo’s jointly co-owned labels – and ICECREAM – helped certify the sneakersphere as a global force, influencing collectors and creatives across fashion’s domain for years to come. Meanwhile, the late tenure at luxury French house Louis Vuitton revolutionised luxury sneakers by deconstructing classic silhouettes. His influence was amplified by the and x colabs, whose industrial aesthetics and outsized resale markets became a symbol of the shift Abloh instigated.

Enter the BUTTERSOFT: a newly-minted, leather-loaded gem with 70s roots, now fully reimagined through Pharrell and Nigo’s colourful lens and spiked with Virgil’s design DNA. Its hallmark is its proprietary butter leather – thick, yet incredibly supple – marrying artisanal craft with futuristic material innovation. The sneaker’s maxed-out profile and hand-painted details recall the storytelling Virgil championed, while the colourways nod to the vibrant palettes of early-Y2K streetwear heavyweights.

In a landscape where limited releases like the 2017 x Pharrell colab sparked 120,000-strong waitlists and six-figure resales, the BUTTERSOFT stakes its claim not just as a luxury, padded-up weapon, but a cultural artefact. It bridges eras and legacies, delivering a technical and aesthetic package that’s as collectible as it is groundbreaking.

Following to Louis Vuitton’s state-of-the-art Fiesso workshop, we’ve unpacked everything you need to know about the BUTTERSOFT – from the leather to the legacy!

250 Steps to Luxury

The Louis Vuitton Manufacture de Souliers in Italy is where the BUTTERSOFT sneaker begins its life. Opened in 2008 and covering 150,000 square feet, this is the biggest luxury shoemaking factory in the Riviera del Brenta region, employing around 500 people – more than half of whom are highly-skilled masters of the craft.

Designed by Jean-Marc Sandrolini, the factory balances old-school build work with cutting-edge techniques. A lush inner courtyard features arresting art installations – such as Joana Vasconcelos’ 15-foot stiletto sculpture – which whisper camaraderie with Louis Vuitton’s legacy of history and creativity. Retro silhouettes, some over 100 years old, are on display alongside examples of the BUTTERSOFT’s design processes, shining a light on how tradition informs fresh ideas.

More than anything, the BUTTERSOFT is highlighted through videos featuring Skateboard P, framing the silhouette’s status as one that sits between luxury heritage and modern thinking. Each of the kick’s four stages of production are delineated through the top-level craftsmanship they require, reflecting the factory’s commitment to quality that supports the model’s hefty price tag of $1150 to $1340.

A BUTTER(-y)SOFT Secret

The defining feature of the BUTTERSOFT is its thoughtful use of custom – a created out of Pharrell’s vision for an uber-soft yet structurally sound silhouette with a resilient touch. Ditching traditional nappa leather due to its thinness and susceptibility to wrinkling, the model uses a notably thicker, firmer and more elastic fabric made from lamb’s leather, giving the walkable art piece its form-focused shape while delivering a soft, pillow-like feel.

From Wood to Foot

With a single pair’s production clocking in at seven days of shoemaking sauce, the process begins with the last – a handmade foundation that shapes the entire BUTTERSOFT look. This anatomical copy of the human foot is created from a dense hornbeam block, chosen for its clean texture and form-locking durability. From there, the last maker steps in, the specialist craftsman whose job is to transform Pharrell and Nigo’s 2D sketch into a real life mould. The result is a sculptural base that nails every intended line while staying true to the demands of everyday wearability.

Once the last’s shape is perfected by hand (sometimes with plaster added to fine-tune its contours), it’s scanned into a 3D CAD/CAM file. This serves as the major blueprint for the remainder of the process, which operates across four workshops – two of which focus exclusively on sneaker production. Here you’ll find lasts for some of the house’s most iconic builds, including Virgil Alboh’s numerous projects with Nike, like the.

Legacy in Every Stitch

The stitching on the BUTTERSOFT sneaker acts as a secret handshake with the brand’s heritage. Performed mostly by hand using the ‘Funt Mano’ technique – think traditional, old-school moccasins – this cleverly-considered needlework shapes and supports the whole upper, utilising patterns that tie the model right back to its historical luggage roots. Just like sewing a fancy dress shoe, this meticulous process takes serious skill and time – making every stitch a literal gesture of love to true craftsmanship!

Pillow Talk

Defining the buttery beast’s feel and status as a luxury item is its foam, which serves as a key part of the sneaker's unique aesthetic. This generous padding is also what gives the BUTTERSOFT its voluminous, exaggerated silhouette, alongside its combination of soft lamb’s leather and mesh lining. The silhouette’s various layers create a plush, comfortable environment for the foot in a design that was fine-tuned over five times to accomplish the finished look.

Of course, cartoon-like proportions and playful forms aren’t new territory for Louis Vuitton. The house have explored elaborate, hyperbolic shapes in past designs like the LV Trainer, the , and the cult-loved Pillow Boot – each blending bold, XL style with luxe materials. The BUTTERSOFT builds on that cultural recipe, pushing the concept even further through soft construction and amplified cushioning.

24 Flavours

The BUTTERSOFT sneaker’s colourways offer a direct reflection of Pharrell’s formative years and the cultural landscape that shaped his vision. Launching in 24 distinct hues – with more expected soon – the palettes span classic monochromes, vivid jewel tones and subtle pastels, all of which are finished in the Fiesso factory.

While the BUTTERSOFT is undeniably a manifestation of Pharrell and Nigo’s creativity, in many ways, the model carries forward the hardcore groundwork laid by Virgil Abloh. Where Virgil’s LV Trainers fused , Pharrell and Nigo sharpen the emotional resonance, balancing vibrancy with form. Together, they changed what luxury sneakers could be: not just expensive, but expressive. The BUTTERSOFT continues that story, merging two distinct design flavours into one silhouette rooted in craft, culture and crossover influence.

Thirsty for more? Read about , and brush up on your couture lore with our historical deep-dive into