Breaking Down the Differences: Air 180 ‘Ultramarine’ 2018 Versus 2024
The is the 1991 cult-classic sneaker created in collaboration between two of Nike’s most prominent designers – responsible for the and the creator. This Air-injected silhouette has come and gone over its thirty years in existence, going through periods of releases then taking hiatuses from sneaker store shelves. Despite boasting a cult status, some heads believe the Air 180 isn’t an official part of the , but here at , we’re on record stating that it’s an integral chapter in the story of Air. That said, there have been countless iconic colourways and remakes of the Air 180, but there’s never been a retro that accurately mimics the OG… until now. Team Swoosh announced in their late last year that 2024 was set to receive the first-ever one-to-one remake of the original Air 180. The first colourway locked in for the re-release is the OG ‘Ultramarine’, which was the debut iteration back in 1991. As to be expected, the 2024 ‘Ultramarine’ looks very similar to the OG and thankfully vastly different to 2018’s version, which was the last time we received the colourway.
A Little History
The original goal for the Air 180 was to make Nike’s signature patented tech more visible than ever before. Hatfield and Kilgore were inspired by horse shoes and used a blow moulding process to fabricate an Air bag that sat all the way around the heel. This was an innovative concept that marked the first time a urethane outsole was moulded to an Air unit. Diehard sneakerheads will be happy to know that Nike have built the 2024 variant from the ground up, and the plan all along was to resurrect the silhouette in 2024 with full OG proportions. Helping with the megalithic task was senior Nike footwear designer Leon Witherow, who’s also known as To achieve this overhaul, the team took a 3D internal and external scan of an original shoe from 1991, enabling them to create the first one-to-one retro of the Air 180, and they did an epic job!
Major Changes
When you compare the 2018 ‘Ultramarine’ to the 2024 iteration, it’s not hard to spot the drastic changes that have been made to this year’s Air 180. The most lauded difference between these two is the Air unit down below. Despite Nike’s original purpose in creating Air 180, it seems over the years they lost their way, making the Air bag smaller with every retro. Thankfully, they realised their mistake, and for 2024 have made the Air unit significantly larger compared to the 2018 variation. It also must be noted that around the late-2010 period of Air 180 releases, the Air bubble infamously started squeaking after multiple wears, and we’re hoping that the 2024s don’t experience the same problem.
When the two Air 180s are put side-by-side, another instantly recognisable difference is the overall shape. As Nike did take a 3D internal and external scan of an original shoe from 1991, the 2024 shape better represents the OG. There’s no drooping just under the laces, and it instead boasts a pointed look. Elsewhere, the Swoosh has also been corrected, which in past retros have been horrendous. The worst Air 180 Swoosh was by far the 2005, which was chode-like. The 2009 and 2018 versions were slightly different, but the tip of the Swoosh went straight up, with no curve. The 2024 is the most similar to the 1991, but the new version is much more rounded and slender when directly compared to the OG.
Minor Changes
For every retro of the Air 180 after 1991, the Swoosh got shorter and fatter while it seems the 180's tongue got longer and longer. By the 2018 period of Air 180s, the tongue was way above the ankle. Thankfully, in 2024, Nike cut that tongue and shortened it drastically to better replicate the OG. One of the most infamous aspects of wearing a pair of the Air 180 ‘Ultramarines’ is by far the white microsuede overlays. Anyone who’s ever rocked a pair knows that the stark white fabric is a magnet for dirt and were an absolute nightmare to clean. Of course, Nike have kept the OG colourway, which comprises of a white base, ‘Ultramarine’ Swoosh and collar, and ‘Solar Red’ heel cup and Air bag window frame. The usual branding remains the same, with the ‘180’ tongue logo and Nike Air on the heel.
There have been myriad changes to the 2024 Air 180 to make it better. Compared to the 2018 variation, the new and improved version hosts a better shape that accurately reflects the OG. As the first-ever one-to-one remake, we’re expecting Air 180s to flood back into sneakerhead’s rotations. If you haven’t been paying attention to the release calendar, the 2024 ‘Ultramarine’ lands on May 24.
Want more Nike Air 180? Read a brief history